The Spelunca Gorge and north to Calvi (18th May)

Heading into the gorge by mid morning, and determined to make more use of our campercontact app in the future given how much we’d enjoyed the municipal site, we were glad that we were ahead of the coaches that ply this road, as although it was easier going than the Calanches, it was twisty enough as we climbed towards the top of what is essentially a 1km deep valley.

The views were as good as promised in the Rough Guide, and the driving fun, with added livestock wandering around to keep us on our toes.

Thwarted by a ‘no campervan’ sign, we were unable to make our planned transit of the gorge and return via the northern side, so we had to make a u-turn and meander back, enjoying the views this time from the other side of the road!

The coast road north to Calvi was every bit as exciting and spectacular as the previous day’s drive, with so many ‘wow’ moments that we soon became pretty blasé to the views over the coast from precipitous pull-ins and the rocks overhanging the road!

Although the drive is only 80km between Porto and Calvi, by the time we’d completed our Spelunca gorge diversion and enjoyed a leisurely drive via the coast road, it was late afternoon when pulled into La Pinède, another ACSI site with good facilities and a beach across the road should the sun continue to shine. Situated between the old town with its citadelle, and the barracks for the elite 2^nd parachute regiment of the French Foreign Legion, Calvi had plenty of interest and we were both looking forward to a few days of staying put!

S&J

Propriano to Porto and ‘les Calanches’ of Piana (17th May)

Our site for the night after our visit to the menhirs of Filitosa was only a few kilometres away on the coast, not far outside Propriano. We’d chosen camping Ras I’Bol on Olmeto plage partly for its close proximity to Filitosa, but also as it was just over the road from a spectacular beach and had a large pool, just perfect for a couple of days rest before tackling a longer coastal drive north to see the spectacular rock formations at Piana.

The weather stayed dull as we picked our pitch to get maximum light amongst the very tall pines, with rain forecast for the night, so we quickly ruled out the beach but were looking forward to a swim in the pool the next day, when the weather was set to improve, as indeed it did.

Except the pool was at best murky and we weren’t sure it had even been prepared for the season! And although this didn’t deter one resolute northern European camper from swimming, we decided to head off north to explore the coast en route to Calvi in the north west.

A quick visit to a supermarket in Propriano before we turned north, confirmed that although prices were higher than on the mainland for some items, many were the same or not much more – except for fuel which we’d seen varying from €1.58 to the low €1.60s so we were glad we’d filled up in Toulon on the mainland!

The drive north was spectacular if slow, and we were treated to patches of sunshine and cloud as we followed the coast road north. Stopping for lunch near Calgone, we were treated to blue skies and sun as we admired the view from our roadside stop.

As we neared the Calanches at Piana the sky filled in again, but that couldn’t detract from the amazing colours of the rock formations that even without the sun were truly spectacular.

The driving was also dramatic, and although there were alternate flow traffic signals in place to allow one way traffic (there are very few passing places) it soon became clear that the system was as good as useless as everyone, including us, was pulling over in the passing places to take photos and buggering up the flow! Still, in spite of a few hairy moments (and some new battle scars for the van from low hanging branches – one of the down sides of being on the inside track going clockwise!) the drive was well worth it, with one breathtaking view after another.

When we set off from Propriano we weren’t sure how far we’d get, but imagined we may have got as far as Calvi (only 218km and, according to madame at reception in camping Ras I’Bol, four hours en camping-car on the coast road) we soon realised that a) she must have been a biker as there was no way anything on four wheels could go that fast, and b) we’d better start looking on our campercontact app for somewhere closer to stay overnight!

And so we chanced upon the municipal site at Porto, en route to Calvi and right by the route into the Spelunca gorge, one of our ‘might do if time’ places on our list. The campsite had only opened for the season the day before, so everywhere was neat and tidy, and although basic compared to some of the ACSI sites we use, in an absolutely breathtaking location at the head of the Spelunca gorge.

And as if to welcome us on our unplanned stop, the sun came out as we walked to have a look at the port and its crumbling Genoese lookout tower. The village of Porto was only created in the 1950s as a tourist resort and our guide had warned us of crowded streets in high season and general mediocrity… However, we enjoyed a quiet stroll and the last knockings of the sun setting to the west and casting a rosy glow over the village and we returned to the van looking forward to a proper dark sky of stars and a good night’s sleep.

Waking the next day (after a beautiful starlit and very quiet night) to a blue sky and sunny day, we set off for an adventure up the Spelunca Gorge before heading north again to Calvi, pausing only to admire the fire fighting equipment near our van!

S&J

To Filitosa and the menhirs – and our first taste of Corsican driving! (16th May)

As we’d agreed to tackle our journey round the coast of Corsica clockwise to benefit from the alleged ‘safer’ inside track, our first drive threw caution to the wind as it was south from Ajaccio and therefore on the outside! As we’d planned to spend only about two weeks in Corsica, we’d reached the conclusion that we couldn’t see everything, so we each opted for a few ‘must do’s’ to get a plan together.

Visiting the 6000 year old Filitosa menhirs was Mr B’s idea, so he took the wheel for the coastal drive. It wasn’t long before it was obvious why we’d read clockwise was safer, as once we reached the twisty and switchback-rich mountain roads, the reason for the multiple roadside shrines we passed became clear – what would usually be a definite no-no overtake on an uphill blind bend, was more of a leap of blind faith by the locals that surely nothing could be coming round the bend…could it? Glad that our brakes were recently serviced and that there were plenty of pull-ins to let the convoys building up behind us pass, the short drive to Filitosa was a good foretaste of driving a la Corse!

Described in our Rough guide as ‘extraordinary’ and as ‘distinct from nearly all other Neolithic menhirs of the megalithic period’ our expectations were high as we pulled into the nearby free carpark under low cloud (some of our route had actually been through the cloud as we climbed into the interior!). Not to be put off by the weather and reconciled to not taking any photos quite as dramatic as the guide book, we treated ourselves to an English translation booklet so as to better understand and enjoy the visit.

Having seen menhirs at Stonehenge and in Scotland, we probably had some clear expectations given how they had been described. So, as we walked past the most famous one not far from the entrance, not much taller than us (and actually a reproduction), it soon became apparent that we needed to readjust our sense of scale! The site itself is a private enterprise and run by the family of the farmer who found the stones (and, as our English booklet informed us, had erected some of the stones near an ancient olive tree to evoke the atmosphere of the original site). The small loudspeakers dotted about the site, playing ambient, new-age tunes were also no doubt designed to add to the atmosphere – until a visitor pressed one of the help-point style buttons and the music was replaced by an audio explanation of that part of the site in one of four languages!

In spite of all of the above, the site did have a very real sense of history and a presence that was hard to describe – it was certainly easy to imagine it as a logical and special place for Neolithic people to congregate, whatever rituals may or may not have been attached to the menhirs.

Our photos don’t do the site justice – but they do capture what it was like to wander round on a cloudy day – and hopefully some of the atmosphere!

S&J

All aboard! The ferry to Ajaccio in Corsica (15th/16th May)

After a very tranquil stay at Les Tomasses (so much so, if we get the boat back from Sardinia to Toulon we’ll likely head back) we drove off to the port, via the free motorway (A57) and taking in a nearby supermarket to stock up with food and drink almost certainly cheaper than we’ll find on Corsica.

Having seen a giant Carrefour from the motorway and followed the first sign off it to the ‘centre commercial’ we were amused to find ourselves still driving a good 20 minutes later, having navigated at least 20 mini roundabouts feeding various parts of a truly enormous set of retail outlets!

Provisioning done, we were grateful we’d left plenty of time as the traffic slowed to a crawl as we hit rush hour on our way into the port. After being directed to the correct queue for Ajaccio, we were surprised to see another, larger one and rammed with camper vans, all heading to Sardinia on a boat due to leave about the same time as us. Maybe they knew something we didn’t!

The boats looked enormous as we queued, no doubt to do with volumes of traffic and distance compared to our short hop across the channel – they certainly looked impressive in their splendid livery of canary yellow, complete with the ‘moors’ head’ logo of the Corsican flag.

Although we were near the front of the queue of vans when we arrived, we were almost the last vehicle to be loaded after the heavy freight and cars. And as we neared the entrance to the boat we were surprised to see vans being meticulously measured for length and height, with some being pulled over. We’d not seen this before and glad we’d been honest in the self-declaration of our own vehicle dimensions! The sense of righteousness soon disappeared though as we saw that all the last vehicles to be loaded were being directed to reverse up the ramp and were disappearing between lines of heavy goods vehicles! Speaking to the yellow clad crew member guiding us backwards with one hand on the rear view mirror and the other gesticulating to go faster, it soon became clear he was Italian – or, not Italian, but from Napoli! We’d seen how Sicilians often saw themselves as not Italian, but this was the first time someone from the Italian mainland had declared it!

Safely parked up and memorising our location as we headed up to the seventh deck to find reception, the scale of the boat soon became apparent, with swimming pools and multiple restaurants – more cruise liner than ferry based on our experiences to date! After reception had explained that our cabin was on the eighth deck, and being guided in by another Italian speaking steward, we were pleased to see that our booking had worked and we had indeed got a porthole to look out of!

We’d packed a picnic and as we wandered around the boat deciding where to eat it, we were struck by the variety of ways other passengers were going to spend the night: some in the noisy and cold area with the bookable Pullman seats (not very comfortable); some just kipping on various bits of floor; and some, including a guy next to where we’d chosen to have our picnic, imaginatively occupying a curved but comfy seating area in the bar – complete with live music and piped music competing with one another!

Glad that we had the relative peace and comfort of our cabin to go to for the remaining 9 hours, we enjoyed the picnic and people watching as more folk were clearly casting around for a place to kip for the night. And as far as the crew were concerned, it didn’t really seem to matter where people opted to sleep – or eat, with some, like us tucking into food and drink they’d brought on board, and others ordering from the bar.

The cabin, with its single beds, air con and en-suite with hot shower was well worth the extra cost, and although it wasn’t the best of sleeps, it was good enough and we were ready for the 0600 announcement that we were almost at Ajaccio, if not for the martial music that played for the entire dis-embarkation process!

Waiting patiently with other vehicle drivers on the stairwell to our level (seven levels down) we were surprised that the people at the chain barring our way didn’t remove it when the announcement came (as the chain had a sign in three languages saying to descend once the announcement had been made to go to the garage deck). Perhaps like us, they’d only experienced ferries where a crew member has this job, but we were eventually saved by a passing staff member. And of course, most of the rest of the vehicles had gone by the time we got to the van, with us and two other campers holding up loads more vehicles further into the bowels of the boat!

After a quick and easy exit off the boat, we made our way across Ajaccio looking for somewhere to stop and have breakfast. And so, because Corsica is still France, it wasn’t long before we saw a bunch of camper vans that had clearly stayed the night in an old car park near the port, and we pulled in to have an early breakfast and plan our first driving route on the island – to visit the famous menhirs (standing stones) at Filitosa in the south.

S&J

To Toulon and the ferry! (10th – 14th May)

Arriving at the small campsite ‘La Roquette’ on the outskirts of Châteaurenard, we were initially cautious at its urban feel. Once through the gates though, it all looked tranquil enough, and with a warm welcome from the owners and a heated pool bathed in sunshine we were won over, and before long we were settled into our new home. The plan was to stay for a few days to get on with planning the next stage of the journey, and booking the ferry from Toulon to Ajaccio on Corsica. With free WiFi and the pool only 10m from our pitch, we quickly fell into full-on holiday mode and spent a couple of days just lazing about and researching our upcoming Corsica adventures.

We’d chosen to stay near Châteaurenard as it’s a bit off the tourist track and as a change from previous visits to this area. It’s very much a working Provençal town, best known as the regional hub for wholesale fruit and veg. (there’s a network of these across France, known as ‘MINs’). We’d also been told that there was local farmers market on a Saturday, which we were keen to visit. After a pleasant half an hour wander through the edge of the town, we found ourselves crossing a disused railway track that cuts through the MIN wondering where on earth the farmers market was.

A quick look around the enormous site quickly revealed that what looked like a group of vans and cars parked in the middle of an open space was in fact a very small produce market, so we headed over, having been told that it closed at midday. It would be fair to say that it wasn’t quite what we expected as although we weren’t obliged to buy by the pallet-load as with the MIN, the eclectic selection of produce was largely on offer only by the carton/box/giant portion, a sort of mini-MIN – so no good for us provisioning for just a few days at a time and so we headed off to the supermarket instead..

Loaded up with enough food and drink to keep us going for a few days (including a bottle of the lush and very pale rosé this region is so good at making) we wandered back to the site, pausing to admire the empty streets and clichéd shuttered buildings we’ve come to love in this bit of France…

Taking advantage of the sun by spending the rest of the day at the pool, working out where we wanted to visit on Corsica (and in what direction – it’s safer clockwise apparently, on the ‘inside track’ of the mountainous roads!) we were chastened to see that the forecast had changed and our summer idyll was about to come to a dramatic end with a couple of days of thunderstorms and heavy rain…

And sure enough, the heavens opened, the pitches flooded and the happy campers were confined to quarters as the temperatures plummeted from the high 20s to single figures! Never imagining that we’d need to use heating on a trip this far south in May, we got our little 1kw greenhouse heater out, relieved we’d brought it with us! Still, it did give us the perfect conditions to get the blog going and to catch up with all those van chores that are so easy to put off when the sun and the outdoors call! After the first night of heavy rain we nearly decided to move on, but having checked the weather for the region, quickly realised that we’d gain nothing, so we stayed put and enjoyed a toasty warm summer version of cabin fever instead…with the soothing melodies of The Unthanks in the afternoon and some air guitar to Ozzie and co at suppertime. Music is usually off limits on our summer visits with all the doors open, so it was quite a treat to turn up the volume for an hour or two.

Eventually the rains stopped and we packed up to head for our final stop on the mainland, a small site in the village of Belgentier, just up from Toulon port in the Forêt des Morières. We’d opted for Toulon rather than Marseille, as it had the better deals for our long (7m) campervan and with a cabin (it’s a 10 hour overnight crossing). At €255 it wasn’t a cheap journey, and prices did go up a bit during the couple of days we were deciding on a date, but if you calculate distance and time (compared to crossing the Channel) and the fact we opted for a cabin rather than a reclining seat (which would have been about €70 cheaper) we decided it wasn’t so bad – and resolved to book a little further ahead for the return leg from Sardinia!

Arriving at camping Les Tomasses late in the afternoon, and with a sky threatening more rain but a chance of sun, we found we had the pick of any pitch with virtually no-one else around. Noting the irony of a site that prides itself on its well shaded pitches when we were desperately seeking sunshine and light, we quickly found one with not too much tree cover right next to the stream that runs along the edge of the site – hopefully not too noisy at night given all the recent rain!

And as it turned out, wonderful clear dark skies with stars twinkling through the skylight for our last night on the mainland before our ferry adventures!

S&J

To Corsica and Sardinia – The journey across France (7th - 10th May)

We’re never 100% certain where (or exactly when) we are going to go for our summer trip until we buy the ferry ticket from Newhaven to Dieppe, when we are obliged to focus, clarify our thinking and to do some planning! We’d fancied heading to these two islands having had a great time in Sicily in 2015, and enjoying the sense of ‘otherness’ that the Sicilians had of being part of Italy but not ‘Italian’. From what we’d read about Corsica and Sardinia, both looked to be inhabited by similarly minded populations – as well as having some fascinating history, scenery, and of course, food and wine!

So, having bought our tickets, discounted for the over 60s, a week or so before leaving in the second week of May, we were treated to some unusually glorious weather as we queued for the ferry, which stayed with us for the duration of the sailing.

This was the first time we’d caught the late afternoon boat, an additional sailing on the summer timetable, and it provided perfect timing for an onboard birthday picnic and a glass of chilled white wine as well as enabling us to get a comfortable hour’s driving in before stopping for the night. Using our trusty Aire de Camping Cars book, supplemented by the ‘Campercontact’ app for the first time, we took an easy option and stopped at Montville, north of Rouen so we could bed down by midnight French time. The 20 van Aire (free) was new to us and we pulled in about 11:30pm local time, expecting it to be half empty, but lucky to get the last remaining space! It seems to be the case that with more and more people travelling by campervan, even outside the main holiday season, we can no longer assume that these Aires will provide a reliable stop for the night…

We woke the next morning (for the second time, having been treated to the bins being emptied right next to our van in the early hours, continental style) to blue skies, rapidly rising temperatures, and the discovery that we were next to a rather lovely leisure lake that had been built on a flood plain by the local council not that long ago, complete with pedaloes, a café and some very cute ducks, both real and rubber varieties! Fortified by breakfast and fresh coffee, we decided to join the locals for a promenade around the shore followed by a visit to the local boulangerie for our first baguette, before heading south. As it was a public holiday (VE day) there was a carnival atmosphere, which explained the numerous flags flying and martial music we could hear from the town square!

Driving towards Clermont Ferrand in order to pick up the A75 to benefit from a free motorway to get most of the way to the Mediterranean, we were both a little nonplussed to see just how much fuel costs had risen in France – from around €1.11 a litre last July to €1.40+ making about a 25% hike since last year by our reckoning. Added to the less than helpful post-Brexit exchange rate, we decided to reinstate the ‘2000 rpm’ driving style we’d tried (successfully) once before to save on fuel costs. This price hike caught us by surprise, leaving us to wonder out loud what else may have gone up since our last visit - and realising it would be the first time in our 25 year plus of campervan travelling together, we’d be paying more for diesel in France than the UK! (We have since discovered that the rise is part of the French government's plan to equalize fuel prices with petrol over four years, starting 2018, by raising the tax on diesel.)

As the temperatures reached the high twenties throughout the day, it suddenly felt like we were much further south than we actually were and that wonderful feeling of being away from the UK arrived much earlier than is usual for May! Realising our leisurely 2000 rpm driving style would put us near St. Amand Montrond by the time we would want to stop for the night, we followed the directions for a (second) small and free municipal Aire on the canal du Berry, having driven past the larger one first, which was rammed to overflowing. Seeing the entrance blocked by ‘route barré’ signs our hearts sank – only to be lifted by the sight of a lone campervan on the other side of the canal, possibly parked up for the night. Pulling in further down the canal bank, we checked that there were no prohibition signs and seeing none, decided this would make an ideal first free-camp of the trip. It’s easy to forget just how easy it is to do this in France and we spent a restful and cool night listening to the canal’s wildlife, with only the occasional passing car.

Morning brought a cloudy day and, unusually for us, we welcomed the cooler driving temperature as we headed off to Clermont Ferrand. Always up for taking the route less travelled, we decided to track across the Cévennes national park, a slow but beautiful drive through wooded mountains and valleys – even as the clouds descended and visibility dropped! Taking a gamble that we may get a space in the Aire at Florac (free), we crawled our way up the steep access road in the late afternoon to find just two spaces left – phew! When at capacity these Aires are little more than busy car parks for campervans, but often in spectacular locations, with this one delivering on both. The town was a fascinating mix of medieval dilapidation and municipal modern rebuild, with picturesque natural water features cascading past the old buildings. Clearly a magnet for lots of folk seeking an alternative lifestyle in a remote(ish) location, the many boarded up shops and houses were peppered with posters and adverts for just about every conceivable alternative therapy going.

Morning brought with it promises of a glimmer of sunshine, so we set off for the A75, aiming to get to a campsite somewhere in Provence for our fourth night on the road. A site where we could stay put for a few days to take stock of our ferry options to Corsica, and allow us to head for Marseille or Toulon pretty easily. And so with the sun shining we arrived in Châteaurenard, to La Roquette, a small site that had a pool, free Wifi, and an easy walk to the local shops and market – all the things we decided we needed to get sorted for our island adventures!

S&J May 13th

Across France and home - the end of this trip

Entering France via Basel with a trouble (and document) free border crossing, we decided we should have enough time to get to the Verdun area, rich in WW1 history and monuments. We had no plans to visit anywhere though, as we intended to get to the coast with a day spare to explore the approach to Dieppe from the east – something we’d not done before. Our overnight stop in Jaulny, midway between Nancy and Verdun (camping de la Pelouse) was chosen because it was in just the right place at just the right time to allow us to set up camp and go for a swim in the on-site pool – a treat after a hot day’s drive.

Our ACSI app had warned us that there may be some noise from nearby trains but as the TGV thundered past as we registered, ‘Madame’ reassured us that they stopped at night. Of course, our French language skills were not able to pick up the subtle inference that by ‘stop’ Madame was referring to the fact that the trains do indeed stop at night, at platforms somewhere en route, but they keep speeding past the campsite throughout the night, albeit less frequently …

If you look carefully you can make out the elevated train track behind the trees in the photo below – perfect for allowing the sound to carry further and clearly across the campsite.

Next morning we headed off with the intention of making straight for the coast, leaving the history of the tragic events around Verdun for another visit with more time to do it justice. Except, as we headed north towards Verdun we drove right past the American Cemetery in St Mihiel near Thiaucourt and it just seemed wrong to drive past without paying our respects, as we’d only visited British and Commonwealth ones on previous trips to northern France.

It didn’t take long before one of the main differences between US and UK approaches to war graves made itself apparent – the presence of a resident ‘superintendent’ from America, keen to welcome visitors and answer any questions. Before long we learned that unlike UK war cemeteries in foreign countries, US ones are not established at or near the battle site where soldiers would have fallen, but are instead organised into aggregated and larger memorials in response to over 65% of US war dead from WW1 being repatriated at the request of their families. The smaller number of overseas memorials means that the US is then able to fund a resident superintendent – at each of the 26 overseas sites.

The knowledge that approximately another 65% of bodies were missing from the St Mihiel site, simply added to the poignancy of the sheer scale of death that had been delivered on an industrial scale, and via a newly mechanised form of war.

Leaving the cemetery, and the sunshine behind, it wasn’t long before we were approaching the northern French coast east of Dieppe, our port of return to the UK. Drawn by the interesting nature of the surroundings and the existence of a few ACSI sites that were still available to us in the second week of July, we were soon following the blue dot on our ACSI App to camping Le Ridin in the Baie de la Somme area. The App showed it as a few hundred metres from the sea, which was interestingly described as ‘not suitable for swimming’ – but the site did have a heated pool – hurrah!

We had no idea how busy an ACSI site midway between Dieppe and Calais might be. We knew that we were not yet in the main French holiday period, and not that close to a major route into Holland from the south (we had seen many Dutch campers heading north), but Le Ridin is a small site and we were not that surprised to be told that it only had one ACSI space left.

So, after pre-ordering the obligatory morning croissants for our penultimate stop, we set up camp amongst a variety of mainly rental chalets and private bungalows. The site is operated by the ‘Yelloh Village’ group, and having stayed at two of their sites in Portugal and France in the past, we were prepared for a proper pimped up experience. Perhaps the site has only just started on an investment plan, with most of the investment in the permanent rather than touring infrastructure…but I doubt we’ll be rushing back any time soon, even though the heated pool made for an enjoyable bask and swim in what was left of the sunshine on this trip.

We did get to the bottom of why the sea was described as unsuitable for swimming when we walked into the nearby village of Le Crotoy for the shellfish treat we’d promised ourselves. It’s really good value here with 1.5ltrs of moules et frites costing only €8.50 – bargain – if probably enough moules in one bucket for two people (we had one each of course – Mr Creosote would have been proud!) and the moules were some of the smallest and sweetest we’d tasted – delicious!

The reason for no swimming (except for a very narrow strip right in front of the lifeguards) is that the whole of the bay area is subject to a big tidal race, second in Europe only to that at Mont St Michel. At as much as 10m between high and low tide, it’s an awesome sight as the endless sand flats are very quickly overrun by rushing sea water. You can make out the speed of the incoming tide in the next photo by the lean of the buoy, set beneath the grey and windy sky – also helping to prepare us for our return home!

On our way out of Le Crotoy to Dieppe we explored along the coast and found a really good Aire just south of St-Valery-sur-Somme across the bay, as well as a very large and reasonable Aire in Le Crotoy itself for just €7 – somewhere we may use on a subsequent trip, as not only are the seafood restaurants perfect for a last night treat, the variety of seafood available from the various shops and stalls along the seafront was fabulous, including samphire and other sea greenery as well as delicious looking mussels, oysters and crabs.

For us though, our last night was to be in Dieppe and parking up in the revamped Aire by the port (€12) we were able to walk into town for our final meal out on this trip – a delicious romp through some Dieppeoise cuisine that seemed to be a prefect end to an amazing trip.

Of course the weather continued to be wet and windy, and although we had seen how hot the UK had been in June whilst we were travelling in Croatia, somehow it seemed to be getting us acclimatised for the changeable weather we were to encounter once we had settled back in at home – already putting some rough plans together for our next trip…

So, thank you Croatia for a remarkably fun and interesting visit – without doubt we experienced a standard of camping higher than any other European country we’ve travelled to so far, and with hospitality second to none, Croatia is a country we will be returning to.

S&J.

PS We hope to get the final ‘data’ entry posted over the next few weeks, giving a summary of route, fuel and camping costs etc.