On our most recent trip to Scotland last autumn, we had the unplanned pleasure of visiting the home of the famous Scottish architect, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, in Helensburgh.
So imagine our surprise, when we ventured from the site in Evie to do some exploring in nearby Port Vendres, when we discovered that he was also famous for his art, much of which he undertook in the Roussillon area, including this port town when he lived there towards the end of his life.
We had sat and pondered, over a glass or two of the local rosé, how much exploring we could do further along the coast toward Spain, and one thing we had discovered was that exploring by campervan would be tricky because of the narrow roads and restrictions in place in some of the small towns and villages on the coastal route. So, we were mightily relieved to discover that there was an Aire in nearby Port Vendres, from which it was possible to walk into the town.
The Aire was perfect for our visit, as it was a scorchingly hot day and there was plenty of shade for Evie. But we couldn’t work out whether we needed to pay or not, until a bit of delving on Park4Night revealed in a review that the local Gendarmes might wander down around 2000 to collect a fee for sleeping overnight, but otherwise it appeared to be free – hurrah!
The walk along the port basin was hot, but interesting, as we moved away from the industrial/commercial area the Aire was near, into the original old port, now much gentrified and aimed at tourists and pleasure craft owners, but retaining an interesting air all the same. This photo looks back to Fort Béar on top of the hill in the background (an active military base, once a Vauban fort) – the Aire is at the bottom of the hill – it was a long walk and the shade was most welcomed!
As was the discovery of the local tourist office, which was where, upon Mr B’s trotting out of our travelling Scottish identities, we were greeted with warm smiles (usual) and even more excitement (not usual) upon discovering that not only did we know who Charles Rennie Mackintosh was, but that we had visited his house in Helensburgh!
Loaded up with information about our fellow countryman, and the key things to see in Port Vendres, we wandered off in the direction of the lighthouse/Redoute du Fanal and La Vierge et l’Enfant statue on the north side of the harbour. It’s a large port, with an interesting mix of vessels. We spotted this enormous converted tug that is now part of a small fleet of emergency response ships that support the French Navy and Coastguard…
...a visiting oligarch…
… and the local lifeboat responding to a shout (we figured it was real as the crew ran aboard in a mix of outfits)…
Hugging the shade as we ventured around the port basin, we passed a few information boards with paintings that CRM had done, cleverly positioned in the approximate place he may have painted them from, as well as the obligatory plaque in his memory…
...and the impressive war memorial…
As we walked further towards our destination, the local plant life gave a clue as to how far south we were…
We eventually reached the lighthouse/redoubt (unfortunately closed)…
… and the statue of Virgin and Infant …
...but it’s fair to say we were most impressed with the views across the harbour…
...and up the coast…
As we returned to the shade of the port, and after treating ourselves to a delicious local ice cream, Mrs B fitted in a couple of ‘artistic’ buoys that relayed sounds of the sea…
...before we walked back to Evie, to see whether the Gendarmes had fined, clamped, or otherwise gainsaid our assumptions about free parking!
S&J 14.07.26
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