Argelès-sur-Mer Days 28-43 Part Three – An unexpected journey with Charles Rennie Mackintosh

On our most recent trip to Scotland last autumn, we had the unplanned pleasure of visiting the home of the famous Scottish architect, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, in Helensburgh.

So imagine our surprise, when we ventured from the site in Evie to do some exploring in nearby Port Vendres, when we discovered that he was also famous for his art, much of which he undertook in the Roussillon area, including this port town when he lived there towards the end of his life.

We had sat and pondered, over a glass or two of the local rosé, how much exploring we could do further along the coast toward Spain, and one thing we had discovered was that exploring by campervan would be tricky because of the narrow roads and restrictions in place in some of the small towns and villages on the coastal route. So, we were mightily relieved to discover that there was an Aire in nearby Port Vendres, from which it was possible to walk into the town.

The Aire was perfect for our visit, as it was a scorchingly hot day and there was plenty of shade for Evie. But we couldn’t work out whether we needed to pay or not, until a bit of delving on Park4Night revealed in a review that the local Gendarmes might wander down around 2000 to collect a fee for sleeping overnight, but otherwise it appeared to be free – hurrah!

The walk along the port basin was hot, but interesting, as we moved away from the industrial/commercial area the Aire was near, into the original old port, now much gentrified and aimed at tourists and pleasure craft owners, but retaining an interesting air all the same. This photo looks back to Fort Béar on top of the hill in the background (an active military base, once a Vauban fort) – the Aire is at the bottom of the hill – it was a long walk and the shade was most welcomed!

As was the discovery of the local tourist office, which was where, upon Mr B’s trotting out of our travelling Scottish identities, we were greeted with warm smiles (usual) and even more excitement (not usual) upon discovering that not only did we know who Charles Rennie Mackintosh was, but that we had visited his house in Helensburgh! 

Loaded up with information about our fellow countryman, and the key things to see in Port Vendres, we wandered off in the direction of the lighthouse/Redoute du Fanal and La Vierge et l’Enfant statue on the north side of the harbour. It’s a large port, with an interesting mix of vessels. We spotted this enormous converted tug that is now part of a small fleet of emergency response ships that support the French Navy and Coastguard…

...a visiting oligarch…

… and the local lifeboat responding to a shout (we figured it was real as the crew ran aboard in a mix of outfits)…

Hugging the shade as we ventured around the port basin, we passed a few information boards with paintings that CRM had done, cleverly positioned in the approximate place he may have painted them from, as well as the obligatory plaque in his memory…

...and the impressive war memorial…

As we walked further towards our destination, the local plant life gave a clue as to how far south we were…

We eventually reached the lighthouse/redoubt (unfortunately closed)…

… and the statue of Virgin and Infant …

...but it’s fair to say we were most impressed with the views across the harbour…

...and up the coast…

As we returned to the shade of the port, and after treating ourselves to a delicious local ice cream, Mrs B fitted in a couple of ‘artistic’ buoys that relayed sounds of the sea…

...before we walked back to Evie, to see whether the Gendarmes had fined, clamped, or otherwise gainsaid our assumptions about free parking!

S&J 14.07.26

Argelès-sur-Mer Days 28-43 Part Two – Unexpected history – the ‘Retirada’ and betrayal of the International Brigades and other Republican fighters (AKA, Mr B turns into a history wonk...)

One of the many things we love about travelling is the unexpected history of places we end up in. Sometimes it may be a new discovery to us, but expected in the circumstances, such as the D-Day landing beaches in Normandy. Sometimes, it’s the unexpected revelations in places we have visited for other reasons, such as the very moving Camp de Milles in Aix-en-Provence, on a previous trip.

To our complete surprise, as we discovered on one of our early exploratory bike rides, it turned out that Argelès has just such a hidden past. We chanced across a memorial/information board on our first ride into town…

...which explained that our super sunny and relaxing beach was, back in the late 30s and into the early part of WW2, a concentration camp for Spanish Republicans and International Brigadistas fleeing across the border into France, following the fall of Barcelona to Franco’s nationalist troops (the exodus was known as La Retirada). Mr B, who has read a fair bit over the years about the Spanish Civil War, was amazed to learn of the camps for the first time.

We discovered a memorial plaque further into town…

...and learned of the existence of a museum about the Retirada in Argelès old town.

We visited the museum on a bike trip and spent a sobering couple of hours there. 

We learned that there had been many Spanish refugees heading to France since the start of the war in 1936, but when Barcelona fell in January 1939, over 500,000 civilians, Republican and International troops crossed into Spain in dreadful conditions, hoping to find a sympathetic response from the French. Instead, what they encountered was a series of concentration camps, including the one at Argelès. which they were forced to build themselves. Conditions were harsh, with many deaths. 

For the 5,000+ Brigadistas, having already been let down by the Republican leadership in being disbanded in 1938 in a failed attempt to appease the Nazis, their internment was compounded when they, along with Jews and other ‘undesirables’ were sent on by Vichy officials to Nazi run camps and forced labour. Some did escape however, and played an important part in the French Resistance. We were reminded too, that both the UK and France had, in their policy of arms embargoes and non-intervention, acted against the legitimate Spanish Republic, with Franco receiving substantial support from the Nazis and Fascist Italy. 

Having crossed the Pyrenees at places the refugees entered France, and were now spending time on the same beaches many were interred at, our visit to the museum had a particular resonance. 

This picture of refugees at Bourg Madame held our attention, as we have crossed the border there a number of times…

...as did the information regarding the strong wind and floods that still affect the beaches, but which had a devastating effect on the refugees in their internment camp…

The museum also showed a film made by Catalans from Spain in collaboration with Catalan French, showing some of the brutalities of the camp life and making clear the Vichy collaboration with the Nazis…

The subject matter was haunting and included an impressive display of art created by people in the camp, featuring the work of Josep Franch Clapers in particular.

Not your average day out we reflected over lunch, but sobering, and a useful reminder in these turbulent times of the consequences of despots going unchallenged…

S&J 11.07.26

Posting update - slight delay caused by mechanical challenge with Evie!

Hi readers!

Apologies for the delay with posting - we had a mechanical issue with the axle going over a couple of steep Cols in the mountains which has delayed writing - but all is resolved now.

This pic might give a clue...

Normal service should resume shortly...

S&J 04.07.26