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Monday 21 May 2018

All aboard! The ferry to Ajaccio in Corsica (15th/16th May)


After a very tranquil stay at Les Tomasses (so much so, if we get the boat back from Sardinia to Toulon we’ll likely head back) we drove off to the port, via the free motorway (A57) and taking in a nearby supermarket to stock up with food and drink almost certainly cheaper than we’ll find on Corsica.

Having seen a giant Carrefour from the motorway and followed the first sign off it to the ‘centre commercial’ we were amused to find ourselves still driving a good 20 minutes later, having navigated at least 20 mini roundabouts feeding various parts of a truly enormous set of retail outlets!

Provisioning done, we were grateful we’d left plenty of time as the traffic slowed to a crawl as we hit rush hour on our way into the port. After being directed to the correct queue for Ajaccio, we were surprised to see another, larger one and rammed with camper vans, all heading to Sardinia on a boat due to leave about the same time as us. Maybe they knew something we didn’t!

The boats looked enormous as we queued, no doubt to do with volumes of traffic and distance compared to our short hop across the channel – they certainly looked impressive in their splendid livery of canary yellow, complete with the ‘moors’ head’ logo of the Corsican flag.



Although we were near the front of the queue of vans when we arrived, we were almost the last vehicle to be loaded after the heavy freight and cars. And as we neared the entrance to the boat we were surprised to see vans being meticulously measured for length and height, with some being pulled over. We’d not seen this before and glad we’d been honest in the self-declaration of our own vehicle dimensions! The sense of righteousness soon disappeared though as we saw that all the last vehicles to be loaded were being directed to reverse up the ramp and were disappearing between lines of heavy goods vehicles! Speaking to the yellow clad crew member guiding us backwards with one hand on the rear view mirror and the other gesticulating to go faster, it soon became clear he was Italian – or, not Italian, but from Napoli! We’d seen how Sicilians often saw themselves as not Italian, but this was the first time someone from the Italian mainland had declared it!

Safely parked up and memorising our location as we headed up to the seventh deck to find reception, the scale of the boat soon became apparent, with swimming pools and multiple restaurants – more cruise liner than ferry based on our experiences to date! After reception had explained that our cabin was on the eighth deck, and being guided in by another Italian speaking steward, we were pleased to see that our booking had worked and we had indeed got a porthole to look out of!



We’d packed a picnic and as we wandered around the boat deciding where to eat it, we were struck by the variety of ways other passengers were going to spend the night: some in the noisy and cold area with the bookable Pullman seats (not very comfortable); some just kipping on various bits of floor; and some, including a guy next to where we’d chosen to have our picnic, imaginatively occupying a curved but comfy seating area in the bar – complete with live music and piped music competing with one another!

Glad that we had the relative peace and comfort of our cabin to go to for the remaining 9 hours, we enjoyed the picnic and people watching as more folk were clearly casting around for a place to kip for the night. And as far as the crew were concerned, it didn’t really seem to matter where people opted to sleep – or eat, with some, like us tucking into food and drink they’d brought on board, and others ordering from the bar.

The cabin, with its single beds, air con and en-suite with hot shower was well worth the extra cost, and although it wasn’t the best of sleeps, it was good enough and we were ready for the 0600 announcement that we were almost at Ajaccio, if not for the martial music that played for the entire dis-embarkation process!

Waiting patiently with other vehicle drivers on the stairwell to our level (seven levels down) we were surprised that the people at the chain barring our way didn’t remove it when the announcement came (as the chain had a sign in three languages saying to descend once the announcement had been made to go to the garage deck). Perhaps like us, they’d only experienced ferries where a crew member has this job, but we were eventually saved by a passing staff member. And of course, most of the rest of the vehicles had gone by the time we got to the van, with us and two other campers holding up loads more vehicles further into the bowels of the boat!

After a quick and easy exit off the boat, we made our way across Ajaccio looking for somewhere to stop and have breakfast. And so, because Corsica is still France, it wasn’t long before we saw a bunch of camper vans that had clearly stayed the night in an old car park near the port, and we pulled in to have an early breakfast and plan our first driving route on the island – to visit the famous menhirs (standing stones) at Filitosa in the south.

S&J


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