Our site for the night after
our visit to the menhirs of Filitosa was only a few kilometres away on the
coast, not far outside Propriano. We’d chosen camping Ras I’Bol on Olmeto plage
partly for its close proximity to Filitosa, but also as it was just over the
road from a spectacular beach and had a large pool, just perfect for a couple
of days rest before tackling a longer coastal drive north to see the
spectacular rock formations at Piana.
The weather stayed dull as
we picked our pitch to get maximum light amongst the very tall pines, with rain
forecast for the night, so we quickly ruled out the beach but were looking
forward to a swim in the pool the next day, when the weather was set to improve,
as indeed it did.
Except the pool was at best
murky and we weren’t sure it had even been prepared for the season! And
although this didn’t deter one resolute northern European camper from swimming,
we decided to head off north to explore the coast en route to Calvi in the
north west.
A quick visit to a
supermarket in Propriano before we turned north, confirmed that although prices
were higher than on the mainland for some items, many were the same or not much
more – except for fuel which we’d seen varying from €1.58 to the low €1.60s so
we were glad we’d filled up in Toulon on the mainland!
The drive north was
spectacular if slow, and we were treated to patches of sunshine and cloud as we
followed the coast road north. Stopping for lunch near Calgone, we were treated
to blue skies and sun as we admired the view from our roadside stop.
As we neared the Calanches
at Piana the sky filled in again, but that couldn’t detract from the amazing
colours of the rock formations that even without the sun were truly
spectacular.
The driving was also dramatic,
and although there were alternate flow traffic signals in place to allow one
way traffic (there are very few passing places) it soon became clear that the
system was as good as useless as everyone, including us, was pulling over in
the passing places to take photos and buggering up the flow! Still, in spite of
a few hairy moments (and some new battle scars for the van from low hanging
branches – one of the down sides of being on the inside track going clockwise!)
the drive was well worth it, with one breathtaking view after another.
When we set off from
Propriano we weren’t sure how far we’d get, but imagined we may have got as far
as Calvi (only 218km and, according to madame at reception in camping Ras I’Bol,
four hours en camping-car on the coast road) we soon realised that a) she must
have been a biker as there was no way anything on four wheels could go that
fast, and b) we’d better start looking on our campercontact app for somewhere
closer to stay overnight!
And so we chanced upon the
municipal site at Porto, en route to Calvi and right by the route into the
Spelunca gorge, one of our ‘might do if time’ places on our list. The campsite
had only opened for the season the day before, so everywhere was neat and tidy,
and although basic compared to some of the ACSI sites we use, in an absolutely
breathtaking location at the head of the Spelunca gorge.
And as if to welcome us on
our unplanned stop, the sun came out as we walked to have a look at the port
and its crumbling Genoese lookout tower. The village of Porto was only created
in the 1950s as a tourist resort and our guide had warned us of crowded streets
in high season and general mediocrity… However, we enjoyed a quiet stroll and
the last knockings of the sun setting to the west and casting a rosy glow over
the village and we returned to the van looking forward to a proper dark sky of
stars and a good night’s sleep.
Waking the next day (after a
beautiful starlit and very quiet night) to a blue sky and sunny day, we set off
for an adventure up the Spelunca Gorge before heading north again to Calvi,
pausing only to admire the fire fighting equipment near our van!
S&J
No comments:
Post a Comment