We had heard about the Oppidum at Ensérune on our way south, from a travel blog we both read (Thisisvanlife) which had mentioned this possible site of interest and free park up near Béziers. Having pressed on to get to Sérignan - and by that time, a much needed shower, we’d promised ourselves to take a look on the way out. Maybe free camp too, if the vibe felt right, or look for a campsite – we’d decide on the day.
It didn’t take us long to get to Ensérune, and we were immediately struck with what a good park up it might make as we pulled in…
We were both of the same view that we would ask at the museum whether it was OK to stay over, especially as it was the weekend. We hadn’t really prepared much for the visit, but we had heard about the water collecting/storage silos that the Thisisvanlife blog had mentioned, and a large draining pond. And the silos next to the car park seemed impressive enough…
But we were completely in awe of the vastness and beauty of l’Étang de Montady that we could see as we climbed up the pathway to the museum from the carpark. We soon learned that this was a much later enterprise from the 13thC that we had somehow conflated with the Oppidum – but what a bonus! Built to create drained farmland during a population boom from what was a former wetland/swamp (the Ensérune peoples used to fish from it, apparently) it is comprised of 60 drainage ditches in the shape of a sunburst. Water is drained into the central pond area, where it is then carried by an aqueduct that empties in to the nearby lakes of Poilhes and Capestang, finally reaching the Aude. Additional irrigation water was made available from the nearby Canal du Midi in 1886, via the Malpas tunnel ‘canalet’.
It’s quite incredible that such a huge agricultural endeavour from the 13thC is still in use and so visible!
Once we saw the information board about the Oppidum it rapidly became clear that the scale of the site was much bigger than we had anticipated, so we decided to get stuck in and give it some time.
The entrance to the site is through a small information centre and then on into the fenced site itself. Mr B soon got chatting to the museum staff and was super excited when he was asked which French Département he was from! And when he explained that we were from the UK, he was beside himself when he was then asked whether we would like the information leaflet in English or French! But with the recognition that we would be at a serious disadvantage if he pretended he knew more French than he actually does, he did the right thing and we came away with a very helpful leaflet in English.
Occupied since the 6thC BCE (the same time that Marseille was founded by the Phoenicians, we discovered) what can be seen now at the site are the remains of a large fortified Gaul village, located on a strategic route connecting Italy and Spain – the Domitian Way. It’s somewhere in the pic below, but we gave up looking and settled for the Canal du Midi instead…
The site is well set out and the pathway wends its way around the edge of the bluff, with interesting trees planted along the way. This reminded us of the ‘granado’ we had at our house in Spain – the climate certainly felt hot enough. The whole area is also a nature reserve and the air was thick with the most beautiful butterflies, none of which kept still long enough to have their photograph taken!
...and Mr B still enjoys the tedious preparation on a pomegranate (granada) as it brings back happy memories!
There are many amazing views across the plains that Ensérune looks down upon, and it’s very easy to see why such a strategically strong position was chosen…
… with plenty of large houses in the interior too…
...and as a testament to its longevity, a necropolis as well…
We saved the visit to the museum until we had explored the ruins outside. It is based in a converted house that was built in 1904 as a private mansion, but once the importance of the site was recognised by the French state in 1922 it became a museum and research centre. As the temperatures rose, we were looking forward to its air conditioned interior!
There is a brilliant temporary display about the different people involved with the exploration of the site, set up in a clever replica of the times…
We were amazed to discover that the museum also houses one of Europe’s largest Celtic weapons displays…
as well as some impressive ceramics, which were traded right across the Mediterranean…
The route back to the exit took us along the northern escarpment, from where there were some incredible views to the Caroux Massif…
Stopping to check with the museum staff that it would be OK to sleep over in the car park if we wanted to (it was – thanks France!) we were faced with two unexpected problems: a bunch of locals were setting up for a picnic/party in the spot we would have chosen in the shade, and we weren’t sure whether we were ready to kick back and enjoy the view from our next option, a fabulous pull in on the road back to the nearby town…
...as although it was perfect in so many ways, it was a looooong time until it got dark! So we decided to mull it over whilst we had lunch. Tidying up after one of our most picturesque lunch stops ever, we both agreed that maybe we should head into the nearby town of Colombiers to explore the campsite (which happened to be an ACSI one!) the Aire, and if neither tickled our fancy, we could head back up into the hills closer to nightfall.
As we drove towards the campsite (Les Peupliers) we passed the Aire. It’s new, and maybe after the trees have grown it might be an attractive proposition, but for now, we decided that in the baking heat we’d pass by this time…
...and have a look at the site. And it didn’t take us long to decided we’d stay! It may have been old fashioned, with pitches dotted amongst the permanent cabins, but we loved it, and chose a pitch next to a lovely old Eriba caravan…
…with a fabulous pool…
...and Mr B was excited to try out his home made magnetic fixings for a drying rack when we don’t need the rotary dryer out…
With the Canal du Midi running through Colombiers, we decided to stay an extra night and have a ride out the next day, if the weather held…
Which it did, and after admiring the interesting accommodation for cyclists (only €30 a night)… sleeps two …
...we set off, with the canal a short five minute ride away at the start of the town…
...with Mrs B setting the pace in the rising heat…
...and it wasn’t long before we could see Enserune rising up in the distance…
The going started to get a little difficult as we started the climb to the Malpas tunnel – which took us completely by surprise as we’d expected to ride through it! There had been lots of signs to the tunnel, which also surprised us given that whilst interesting to do, walking or riding through a tunnel didn’t seem that exciting, surely? It turned out that the excitement is because there is the canal tunnel, the ‘canalet’ feeding the Montardy lake, and a train tunnel all in the same area, on top of one another. But, disappointingly, the only access is via some steep steps on the other side of the canal – so we understandably saved that for another day!
Before long, but long enough in the rising heat, we reached our destination of Poilhes, a small village to the west of Colombiers. Properly picturesque, we took in the views and enjoyed a rest under a shady tree (along with our emergency snack of cheesy ossau iraty biscuits) before heading back…
...enjoying the view back towards the Oppidum…
...before we arrived back in Colombiers, where we had a brief cycle around the canal port area, before heading back to the site and that very welcoming pool!
Over dinner that night we didn’t take long to decide that although we had only been away from the coast for four nights, we might just be hankering for some more seaside fun!
But where next – and what of our plans to head into Spain…?
S&J 21.06.26
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