The Olive Route, Córdoba, and an Unexpected Treat!

The drive to Córdoba was beautiful, winding through a hundred miles of olive groves, artfully woven into the rolling hills all around.  It seemed that no land was wasted and all was lovingly tended.

Fortunately, temperatures were warm rather than hot, and we arrived at Camping Albolafia about 15 miles outside Córdoba at Villafranca de Córdoba around 5pm, feeling relaxed and, for me, relieved that a whole 24 hours had elapsed without another attack of the vapours.  Perhaps it had just been dehydration or heatstroke, who knows? One thing is for sure, I'll be much more conscious of saying shaded and keeping my fluid intake topped up from now on.

We'd arranged to meet an old work colleague of Mr B's, and his wife, travelling in Spain for the first time in their new camper at the campsite and so a jolly evening ensued with outdoor paella cooked by the men, and copius amounts of wine, and we flopped into bed about 11:30 under dark skies and twinkling stars, since this lovely wooded site has a dark skies policy and turns off all but essential lighting at night.

Next day was our Córdoba visit.  Buses from the local village only run a few times a day and as it takes almost an hour this way, we decided to drive in and park at the city aire instead, a short walk from the Mezquita, which proved a good decision.  The aire is centrally located with a barrier system, number plate recognition and cctv, so it felt nice and safe.   Cities are the one place where we are always more conscious of the potential for break-ins, having been caught out in the past.  We parked amongst the other vans and picnicked under the trees before heading off for the famous Mezquita, just a 10 minute stroll away, along the river Guadalquiver.

And since it was a hot day, I dug put the parasol . . . . .

Córdoba is a very much a provincial cousin to Granada - with none of the grand old avenues of the latter, and being a Monday, most of the sites, apart from the Mezquita were closed, which was good for us as city exploring is best done in half day sessions!

The Mezquita, or the Mosque-Cathedral as it said on the tickets, is a grand old place, originally built as a visigoth basilica in the 6th century and then a mosque between the eighth and tenth centuries.  Later consecrated for Christian worship in the thirteenth century when a high altar was installed in the centre and after that a cathedral, ripping out the heart of the building to build the cathedral at its centre, whilst retaining the external features of the mosque.

It was a curious experience to wander around such a unique hybrid, through the classic Moorish archways, only to be assailed by the catholic iconography and figurines in the centre.  Whilst undeniably impressive, it seemed all in all a building very much at odds with itself.

It's difficult to convey the scale of the place in photos, particularly as we are now relying on my £50 Fuji since Mr B's rather more expensive Olympus gave up the ghost (after 12 years of sterling service so we can't grumble too much!) in Granada.

After we’d explored for an hour or so, we headed off into the old Jewish quarter for an ice cream before going over to the old Roman bridge.

Next day, showered and packed, we began our journey to Olvera, one of Andalusia's lesser known 'white towns', stopping en route at the Medina Alzahara, or shining city, an ancient Moorish kingdom over 1000 years old, just a few kms away in the foothills outside Cordoba, and what an unexpected treat it was!

On arrival we were given free admission (as EU citizens) and treated to one of the most informative and fascinating animated histories we'd ever seen.  After that, for a couple of euros each, a bus took us up to the site itself, halfway up a steep hill with stupendous views across the plain.

The city has only been 12% excavated and even this makes for an extraordinary visit.  With the animation so fresh in ones's mind, the city is brought to life as you walk around, visualising the armies lined up on horseback and foot, standards fluttering in the breeze, with the Caliph surveying all from the balcony.

A few parts have been restored, such as the mouldings on these arches, and everywhere remnants of the city, which had been completely buried for several hundred years are piled up, ready to be re-used.

Valuable relics, such as pottery, glass and silver coins are in the museum, although when the city fell, after only about 80 years, it was comprehensively looted by successive invaders, with even the ashlars being taken to build elsewhere.

It's funny, after all the hype about the 'big' destinations, what a treat these less popular places can be.

With this in mind, we headed off in the late afternoon sun to Olvera.