Sesimbra – a tale of tiles, graffiti and spectacles….

As we were planning our next steps north from the fabulous Troia peninsular, we mulled over having lunch in Setúbal (where we had feasted on an enormous platter of fried seafood with the kids 20+ years ago, or heading further west to the small town of Sesimbra, where we’d never been and which was famed for its seafood restaurants. So, bouyed by our success with dinner out in Cacela Velha, we pushed on to Sesimbra to explore the municipal site set on a hill overlooking the bay that it nestles in.

And what a find it was! For just under €12 we were treated to fine views through the tree-lined terraces on enormous pitches that would easily have fitted two camper vans and a tent to boot!

Situated next to an old Fortaleza and overlooking the port, the enthusiastic campsite staff told us it was a 25 minute walk to the centre if we wanted to eat out that evening – as the site restaurant (which itself had amazing views) might, or might not, be opening – ‘depende!’

As we had made good time (for Portugal) we decided to head off to the town to look around the sights in the late afternoon – after a by now customary coffee and pastele de nata. Our guidebook had outlined the key attractions as the old Fortaleza on the beach (once a summer home to the Portuguese royals); the many extravagantly tiled houses; and of course the seafood restaurants – which line both the promenade and the back streets.

The 17^th century Fortaleza Santiago was suitably impressive with newly restored museums and a swanky terraced bar. Keen to spend time in the backstreets and the tiled houses, we stayed long enough for a couple of proper tourist pics and then headed into the town.

Sure enough, the town was peppered with amazing houses covered in intricate exterior tiling – adding both decoration and functional waterproofing!

It soon became clear though, that as well as the tiled houses, there was a strong (and more recent) tradition of street art that at times blended with the faded grandeur of the old tiled houses…

…and also stood in its own right on doorways, which seemed to be a popular form of expression:

And to add to Sesimbra’s charms, as we wandered further into the backstreets we came across a fabulous display of local school children’s crochet skills, set out in a lovely shaded square and adorning the trunks of trees – including the most amazingly pruned bouganvillias I’ve ever seen, that had been intertwined to proved a lovely shaded area.

And so the time came to choose which of the many restaurants would deliver up a seafood treat – one on the front with a view, or one in the less busy side streets. Expecting the Portuguese to follow what we had come to know as more northern European eating times, we were surprised to see that by 7.30 none of them seemed to have any punters – and instead most peeps were lazily drinking beers and eating their way through mounds of caracais (snails) in the many snack bars. Determined to treat ourselves to a proper seafood extravaganza in one of the many charcoal fuelled eateries, we opted to find somewhere that was serving dinner rather than snacks – which we eventually found overlooking the bay. Coinciding with our choice, the wind decided to pick up and blow a proper hooley – so we gave up on the view and went inside to join the other diners. Now, those of you who wear specs will appreciate this – to my horror, as I went to swap from my sunglasses (fine outside but useless indoors) and I opened my case to take out my normal specs – I discovered the box was empty! I’d clearly left my ordinary specs back at the van – so I was now faced with an evening as Stevie Wonder, or one of scowling my way partly-sighted through the menu! Luckily Mrs B stepped in as menu reader, wine pourer and general guide to the less able…

The food, after all the hype was a mixed bag. Mrs B wisely opted for fresh sardines cooked right in front of her on the BBQ. Less wisely, I opted for chocos (cuttlefish) and chips – one of my favourites. Unfortunately, our chosen restaurant had opted for the ‘trick the tourist’ version of carefully machined bits of ‘poton’ – giant squid that are so huge they are machine processed in sheets and served to unsuspecting eaters. Much less sweet and much more chewy, I nonetheless ate the lot after all the expectation – washed down with a fab bottle of local wine that eased the disappointment.

And so, aided by Mrs B taking my arm as she led me back up the hill to the campsite, we settled in for what promised to be another peaceful night under the Portuguese stars.

So, after some sleep and waking to yet another sunny day, we set off for our next stop – Buddha Eden!

S.