Before we left our new ‘happy place’ in France and headed off to Concarneau, Mr B decided it would be a good idea, given our experience in Le Pouldou and its ‘complet’ status, to phone ahead and try to book a few nights if possible. Although Camping Raguénez had had plenty of space as it transpired, Concarneau looked to be a classic tourist magnet, with its medieval walled island city - and there was only one ACSI site - and that was small!
So with the confidence of someone who has already made a couple of relatively successful (according to Mr B) phone calls in French, he pressed on and soon established that to get the ACSI rate, we would need to turn up in person, but he could book ahead with the normal rate (about a third more). As we were keen to visit Concarneau, he booked over the phone and decided to wait until we turned up to find out why it wasn’t possible to book at the discounted rate.
Nowhere is very far in Cornouaille, and after a brief stop to replenish our food and drink supplies, we turned up at Camping les Sables Blanc and joined the queue of campervans waiting to get in! At this stage we felt very pleased with ourselves that we had booked ahead…
Announcing himself by name to the staff at reception, and after receiving the waiting welcome pack, Mr B enquired why it hadn’t been possible to book ahead at the discounted ACSI rate. Both of the reception staff looked at each other and very gently explained that it was of course possible to book ahead with ACSI, and they had no idea why Mr B had been asked to pay at the full rate… Sensing that this may have been a result of his less than perfect French skills, he pressed on and suggested that perhaps he could get a refund for the balance then… Unfortunately this turned out not to be possible (computer says non)… but, with a queue building up behind him as Mr B pressed on in his best French, the reception staff relented and offered a further 4th night at no cost, if we wanted…
Reporting back to Mrs B (who usually waits in Evie to help lessen the stress whilst Mr B does his French thing) the atmosphere was dampened, as we both felt we had been a tad hoodwinked as gullible Johnny foreigners… which was compounded by our pitch allocation which turned out to be small, with no views and boxed in by looming shrubbery, when we would have much preferred an open aspect…
Returning to reception after having noted a few better, and empty pitches, we were informed that it was not possible to swap… But with another queue building behind him, Mr B persisted, pointing out that we had payed the full rate, and before long we were offered an alternative (not one we had chosen of course) – which we could have once it was vacated the next day.
So, with the excitement of arrival somewhat dampened, we parked up in our designated pitch and enjoyed our first taste this trip of Noix St Jaques, which we had spotted in the supermarket after a large group of people had gathered around something at the fish counter! It’s not really the season for fresh scallops, but we are big fans and couldn’t resist!
After moving onto our new pitch asap the next morning, and having been greeted by this very friendly but not known to us bird…
… we set off to visit the ‘Ville Close’ of the old walled city, reached by gated access from the site along a very pretty track that led directly to the port…
There is an excellent Tourist Info on the harbourside and we soon stocked up with loads of useful information on the area as well as the Ville Close.
Founded in the early 14thC, the VC has endured a mixed history as a fortified town, surviving the 100 years war in the 1300s, the 15thC wars between Brittany and France, the Wars of Religion in the 16thC and surviving as a military stronghold until the late 19thC - only to see the city authorities draw up plans to demolish much of it and sell off the stone for use in the new harbour… Luckily, a colony of artists who lived in the VC, lobbied for it to be saved and it became a listed Historical Monument in 1899 – phew!
We fully expected the interior of the VC to be full of tourist tat, but it was actually rather lovely, and after a walk around the battlements…
... we had lunch (we really fancied a ‘proper’ French Croque Monsieur of all things!) followed by an amazing Kouign Amann…
...and more wandering around where we saw this poster of a future destination in the search for M. Aubéry…
… and some proper clichéd photo opportuites…
Our return to the campsite (uphill) left us ready for a swim in the pool…
...and after dinner on our lovely new spacious pitch, we turned in to enjoy a peaceful night’s sleep before another day exploring Concarneau… Except our early night was thwarted just a little by our neighbours (three women who were very good at following the campsite rules, requiring silence between midnight and 0700) in that they (perhaps after a few drinks) would chat and laugh raucously until dead on midnight, when they would stop, and turn in. As our bedroom window was right above the section of hedge they had chosen to set up their drinking club, we had to recalibrate our ideas of an early night – and for the next two nights as well! Oh well – that’s camping for you!
The next day saw us wandering back into Concarneau and exploring the coastline between the campsite and the port…
...visiting the very detailed fishing museum in the VC…
...including the fascinating trawler we had to ourselves…
…listening to some amazing music by a street performer with a very unique guitar…
...discovering a fascinating Crêperie in the back streets that was only open between 1200 and 1400 each day, run by a lovely chap who was the sole member of staff (the owner) who tolerated Mr B’s French whilst recommending an ‘essential’ cider on the side and also providing much amusement to a couple of Swiss women we got chatting to…
...leaving us enough time afterwards to explore the early evening market…
… before wandering back up the hill for dinner, and the wait until silence on the dot of midnight!
As the offer of an extra day at no charge coincided with a dull day all over the region, we decided to stay on and have a foray into nearby Quimper, the ancient capital of Cornouaille and another haunt of Monsieur Aubéry. We’d read online that it is difficult to park a campervan in the town and this proved to be the case! So, after spending almost as long looking for a space big enough for Evie as it took us to get there, we followed the advice of Park4Night users and visited a large Carrefour on the outskirts, where we parked easily, only 15 minutes away by foot from the historic centre. Too late for lunch in town, we ate in Evie whilst we waited for the drizzle to blow over…
It’s an interesting place with a beautiful Gothic-style Cathedral and several museums, including one dedicated to its Faïence pottery, but we didn’t do it justice as the weather was wet and dull and after two perfect days of intensive sightseeing in Concarneau we were a bit touristed-out.
We probably need to come back and try again!
It may come as no surprise that by now we were very keen to get back beachside – which also coincided with attempting to meet up with friends of ours travelling through this part of France, who, by complete coincidence, were booked in to a campsite at Sainte-Marine, near Bénodet that we had earmarked to try – all it needed was Mr B and his improving, but still faltering French to make it happen…
S&J 05.07.25
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