It was with a mix of frustration and sadness that we headed off the Isle of Skye. Frustrated with the weather which had turned for the worse at the very point we were deciding to stay north, or not; and sad, that we had no time left on Skye – which clearly merits a lot longer than we had been able to give it!
In spite of the weather turning dreich after the haar had rolled into Portree, we were optimistic that we might get clear of it as we headed off to explore the coastline of Loch Carron, and in particular the little village of Plockton, again on the recommendation of Mrs B’s friend Lindsay. Famous for its coral beach and tropical palm trees, it seemed too good to be true and quite unlike anything we had seen so far! And better still, Park4Night showed that there was a possible place to overnight a short walk from the coral beach!
Following the route outlined on the P4N App, we zigzagged across the headland (noting coaches heading in the other direction…) and eventually found an idyllic parking area adjacent to the tiny Plockton airstrip, with plenty of space to park up and only two other vans there. Idyllic that is, except for the small herd of very tough looking highland cattle roaming freely. Realising that walking to the village of Plockton from the park-up was probably not a good idea, we opted instead to drive to the village to explore, and then return to park up for the night.
We knew there was a car park in the village where campervans could park up (P4N again) but no overnighting was permitted. Joining a few other campervans, we parked up and headed off to explore. And although the tide was out…
and the clouds were gathering…
we did get to see a good example of the iconic red corrugated iron roofs that are pretty popular in the Highlands…
as well as the small micro brewery, an interesting restaurant (closed), opportunities for boat trips, and a decent pub, before returning to Evie for a cuppa. As we wandered back we muttered, perhaps for the 100th time this trip, “if only the sun…” a refrain which we imagined we were not alone in uttering with the changeable weather! Because Plockton really is a beautiful location!
We were greeted by our neighbours as we returned to the van, both looking like they were clearly stopping over for the night, in spite of the large sign at the entrance to the car park prohibiting it. Of course we may have been wrong, but they wouldn’t be the first campervans ignoring signage stating that only daytime parking was permissible, and it was easy to see why locals all over the Highlands are losing patience with camper-vanners generally. OK the infrastructure may not match the demand for the huge number of campers on the road, but given the very permissive approach to finding your own spot, it did strike us that matters might be heading towards a meltdown of some description, given the widespread disregard by some van owners, of the views of locals. Such a shame, given the generally friendly nature of the Scottish folk we have met.
i
Parking back up at the airstrip (and keeping a beady eye on those coos) we decided to take advantage of the fact it wasn’t raining, to go and explore the coral beach; a 15 minute walk through the woods that ranged along the shoreline. Passing just two people heading away from the beach who told us we had perfect timing, as we’d have it to ourselves, even under the dull cloud cover, it was a very magical experience. If only…
Reality check – it’s not actually coral, but a type of hard coralline seaweed called ‘maërl’ that gets crushed with wave action then dried and bleached by the sun. Oh well, very impressive none-the-less!
Wishing we had better weather for a swim – or even a paddle, we made it back to Evie just as the rain arrived! As did the midges inside Evie – our first (and only) encounter with the little blighters. Battening down the hatches and deciding against the use of the anti-midge ‘Bother-me-not’ candle from Sally at Ardnamurchan, or a Spanish wafty stick thing that worked with mosquitoes, Mr B opted instead for hand-to-hand mortal combat, eventually wrestling them to an early grave (as described by Mr B) or, perhaps they were just squidged with kitchen paper (Mrs B’s words).
Waking the next morning bite free (a miracle, given the numbers that had found their way inside) we plotted a route south via Glencoe and Rannoch Moor (thanks Paul and Sue) to take in the majesty and scale of the scenery (via Fort William of course). But first, we had our second chance at one of Scotland’s most photographed castles, Eilean Donan on the shores of Loch Alsh. Ethereal was the best description we could come up with, as the rain lashed across the loch and the completely rammed carpark, sporting the by now familiar ‘Full’ signs …
And the weather hadn’t much improved as we traversed the stunning landscape of Glencoe and Rannoch…
If only…
Stopping only for tea at a community woodland in Dalrigh near Tyndrum, (which would have made a great stopover for the night had we arrived later and been more tired), we set off down the western shore of Loch Lomond, heading back into a part of Scotland we had explored last March. Except then, we had swerved the challenge of heavy traffic on an A road (A82), perhaps better described as a series of slow straight stretches, punctuated with some very narrow wiggly sections, and a sprinkling of sharp bends, usually accompanied by fast-moving logging trucks heading at us on our side of the road… Luckily, Mrs B was driving, and her driving skills no doubt kept us alive and well to tell the tale!
Ready for a rest, not to mention a stiff drink, we swerved one P4N suggestion that would have found us in splendid isolation back up the hillside of the loch – but right under a telecoms mast disguised as a giant telegraph pole! And then Mrs B found a likely spot right under the cliff-side of Dumbarton Castle, west of Glasgow.
We hadn’t had an urban sleepover for a while, and although it looked ideal (right on the Clyde and very quiet) it felt very odd to be so obviously back in a large town!
And it started to feel even odder as car, after car, after car started to pull up alongside us, in front, and all over the adjacent verges, with all the occupants heading in the same direction…
It was the black, white and gold scarves worn by many folk though that gave the game away – we were just up the road from Dumbarton FC’s football ground! And sure enough, within half an hour of the final whistle being blown, we were back on our own!
With a quick walk after a good night’s sleep to admire the Clyde, the castle, and the weather…
we refuelled and headed off to the nearby motorway south to England!
After a short hop along the M8, skirting the city of Glasgow, we joined the M74 and realised that, (oh yes!) we would very probably hit the Tebay services across the English border in time for another fantastic pie-fest! And we did indeed, discovering that it’s not just us that think these pies are a bit special!
With the sun starting to peep through the clouds, we soon arrived at our hopping-off point for the A49 (just off the M56 at Lower Stretton), having decided that the A49 is definitely our new way around Birmingham! With the sun clearly in hat-on mood, we decided to stop off just north of Shrewsbury at the iron-age hill fort site of Ebury. It’s a lovely no-frills site (no showers or toilets for vanners) and, bathed in sunlight we spent a much-deserved warm evening with dinner outside – at last!
Next day saw the return of some dull weather, but it didn’t stop us having a very informative time at Wroxeter Roman city nearby…
followed by a wet but lovely walk around the nearby Attingham Park with Mr B’s brother Nige…
We headed off after lunch (back on the A49) aiming to get to a small site north of Hereford that we had seen on P4N. But as we pulled in, and the tumbleweed rolled across the prairie, we agreed that if just didn’t feel right, so we headed on to our plan B – the field next to Hereford Rowing Club!
We weren’t expecting much, but it turned out so well we stayed an extra night, as the sun had found its hat again, and neither of us knew the nearby city, so worth an explore!
It’s a quirky site this one, in that the shower and toilet facilities are shared with the members of the club, which were quite cozy in the men’s…
but the location and views are fabulous…
the riverside walking to the nearby Breinton springs and ancient orchard very relaxing …
and the city itself with its black and white timbered buildings and cathedral, very picturesque…
We very nearly stayed a third night as the sun was forecast to stay and there is so much to do, but the call of home and the thought of seeing our family again was too strong to resist in the end!
The journey home was bathed in sunshine, and as we meandered along our favourite way home from the west, the A272, we reflected on what an amazing, if short trip we’d had! Even the variable weather didn’t dent our enthusiasm to return to Scotland – but we’d definitely swerve the very touristy bits – or go in the winter when tourist numbers are low – and the midges are all asleep!
(A note on cuckoos. In most of our UK campervan travels the bird we most frequently hear first and last thing is the wood pigeon. But not in Scotland. Oh no, almost without fail and particularly in our time on the Highlands, it was the cuckoo! We have never in all our years heard so many – amazing!)
So thanks Scotland – and all the people that contributed to our travel itinerary – we have a sneaking suspicion we’ll be seeing more of you next year!
S&J 06.06.24
No comments:
Post a Comment