Another day, another city stop and what a stop this one was.
Salamanca has been on Mrs B’s bucket list ever since we
first drove close by after taking a wrong turn en route to Portugal about 25
years ago and she was struck by how lovely it looked from the road passing by.
After our less than perfect day in Cáceres, there was a lot riding on this one…
It started well at our chosen campsite, camping Regio, a few kms outside the
city. This very pleasant site is behind a hotel of the same name and shares the
reception for check-in in low season. It’s an attractive set up, with a grand
statue outside and intriguing tower in the grounds.
There’s even a bus stop in the hotel car park where campers can catch a bus that goes into the city centre, for €1.50 each way.
We’re loving public transport here in Spain; punctual,
reliable, clean, publicly owned, reasonably priced and well used.
After settling into our new home, we decided our weekday trip the next day was
to be a relaxed one and indeed it was. We’d planned to start the day at the
famous Plaza Mayor, but passed by the huge indoor mercado on the way, and of
course just had to pop in just for a peek.
The building itself is rather lovely, set on two levels with vaulted stained glass windows and same fabulous produce within. The ground floor was positively stuffed with jamóns and cured meats, hooked up overhead, displayed on counters and in cabinets and, tempted as we were to buy, as we were poised for a day of sightseeing, we enjoyed this fabulous feast just for the eyes and took photos instead.
Downstairs was a little less photogenic, so we’ll spare you the images of teeny
tiny whole piglets, tripe, trotters, snouts, ears and faces, all neatly
compartmentalised, and although we’re sure they’re all delicious, appropriately
cooked - and nose-to-tail eating is very on-point at home these days, as it
should be, we’re just not used to seeing the body parts so graphically
displayed!
No photographs of the Plaza Mayor can quite prepare you for how grand it is in
real life, it really is quite something. Not so photogenic on our visit as a
temporary structure and book fair was just being dismantled the middle but very
impressive all the same.
Next stop was the cathedral, or more accurately cathedrals, old and new, connected. We climbed the tower here for spectacular views across the city. There were a lot of steps…and bells…
And a look at the shell house…
And another church…
And the ‘old’ cathedral…
Then it was lunchtime and we opted for an outdoor sit down menu del dia, with a
platter of Iberian cured meats to start (of course), although we were tempted
by these sandwiches at a takeaway we passed just before, positively dripping
with jamón…
Salamanca certainly seems to be jamón central. Much of the jamón that Spain produces comes from the Castilla y Leon region as well as from Extremadura, with the famous free range Iberico pigs producing the very best - and most expensive hams, jamón iberico bellota, from free range pata negra pigs. We’ve driven through some beautiful pig territory on the trip north, with rolling hills dotted with oak, grazed by cattle as well as pigs.
Our post lunch destination was Casa Lis, an urban mansion nestled in the former city wall, showcasing decorative arts from the Nouveau and Deco periods. This is an absolute must on any Salamanca visit, both for the building as well as its fascinating exhibits, from paintings to glassware to toys. We loved it!
From there it was a hop across the road to yet another Roman Bridge for Mr B and then time for a quick coffee before catching the bus back. But not before we’d spotted a rather unique take on convenience shopping Spanish style…
Salamanca, we thank you for a grand day out - in every sense of the word!
J&S
20.11.22
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