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Friday 22 July 2016

The Circle Sea; A game of two halves


Sérignan is just a short potter from Loupian and we were soon there, having shopped en route to pick up some regional goodies for the next few days, including a couple of Tielle Sétoise, little squid and tomato pies that are popular in this region, plus a few bottles of the lovely pale southern rosé, of which we’d become rather (too) fond over the past week.

We were looking forward to some more Mediterranean seaside swimming, having not been in the Med since Oliva in early May. We’d chosen another Yelloh! branded campsite, as in Portugal, partly as it was the only one along this stretch with a few days left on ACSI discount but also because it had direct beach access.  The campsite, Aloha, was almost at capacity at the start of the school summer holidays when we arrived, but we were given a choice of several emplacements by the lovely young staff and were soon installed under the trees on a spacious pitch.



These 5 star sites have been quite a revelation to us this year and this one was even better than the last, with a full range of shops, pools, waterslides, jacuzzi and entertainment programme, as well as super modern shower blocks and a launderette.  With our morning baguette and croissants less than a hundred metres away, there was no need to venture far and we just relaxed, beached and swam most days, along with a bit of exploring on the bicycles.




Not far from the site is Valras Plage, a substantial resort town, and you can get a small ferry boat, the Lily Passeur, across the estuary to get there, so after a couple of days sunning ourselves, we hopped on the bikes for a morning cycle and lunch out. 

It was a pleasant ride on the flat, past the horses grazing on the marshes, attended by the ubiquitous egrets common to this type of terrain.


Also along this stretch of road are several stalls selling local produce, including tomatoes and courgettes grown in the adjacent fields.  I love tomatoes this fresh – you can just small and taste the sunshine, and we made a note to stop by later. By luck, we arrived at Valras on market day, just in time for a quick wander around before settling down for lunch.  It’s much more touristy here and whilst our lunch was perfectly pleasant, it didn’t have the same nice low key vibe that we’d enjoyed at Méze a few days previously – and there were so many (too many) places to choose from!

From here we caught the boat back and then cycled the few kilometres into Sérignan itself, an attractive little town, and after an afternoon ice cream, we pedaled back to Aloha along the cycle paths that run all along this stretch, including one that goes out to Portiragnes and the Canal du Midi and further, to Cap D’Agde, with its many nudist campsites.  We were slightly tempted . . . I spent time on a naturist site in the former Yugoslavia many years ago and loved it, but I suspect that the Southern French version may be a tad more commercialised these days!

Back at Aloha, another evening cooking session – outdoors most of the time here. . .

 

We’d looked at the entertainment programme for the bar and thought we probably wouldn’t venture there, but sitting outside the van one evening we both began tapping our feet to Red Beans and Pepper Sauce, the French funk rock band that were playing that evening, and were tempted over for the last 45 minutes or so of their set, which included an excellent rendition of Motorhead’s The Ace of Spades!  The bar was rammed with young, old and everyone inbetween having a good time, as did we.  Another preconception quashed!!


All too soon it was time to go.  It had been full-on here; busy, noisy with families and almost at capacity, but we’d had a great time and were sorry to leave.  As we left, our wristbands were cut and our €50 deposit returned.  It seemed odd to have these attached on arrival and the first time we’d experienced it, but pretty sensible on a site this size with so many visitors.


We will certainly return to this area in future – in fact as I write this I can just imagine sitting under the trees on a balmy evening with a plate of local oysters and a glass of chilled wine, mmm …..


J.

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