A walk in the clouds . . .

. . . and a cycle ride on our trusty little folding bicycles. 

After a mellow few days soaking up the sunshine on the coast and with weather forecasts looking dull, cloudy and even a little damp, we thought we’d make for the interior, heading for the hills north of Sagunto (itself a worthwhile visit if you're ever this way, with its impressive hilltop Roman city towering over the orange groves below), but we've visited before, so onto new territory and a little town called Navajas, perfectly situated on the 'Via Verde de los Ojos Negros', one of the old railway tracks of which there are many all over Spain, that have been converted into walking, cycling and horse-riding routes, see: 

www.viasverdes.com 

for more info.

This one, which runs from Teruel, used to transport iron ore to the port of Sagunto on the coast and is perfect for a couple of days enjoying the great outdoors. Navajas is an old spa town, boasting some beautiful eighteenth century mansions from its heyday, when wealthy Valencians used to come here to escape the heat of the city.  It made for an interesting stroll from the campsite into the plaza, with its 400 year old elm tree and Friday market - serendipitously timed for us the next morning! 

From the town, there's a riverside walk past several springs and small waterfalls to the Salta de la Novia (or bride's leap, after a local legend of a young bride who plunged to her death here) where the water comes thundering down some 30m from the cliff top into a series of pools where you can swim, in temperatures a little warmer than we had maybe, and put me in mind of more exotic locations. It's really rather spectacular.

 

Next day, after stocking up at the market with the delicious local olives, bitter with wild thyme, we took a meandering walk along the Via Verde to Altura, by way of a small contemporary aqueduct and picnic area, built recently as a social project and a pleasant area to pause awhile.

Next day was set aside for a bike ride to Jerica, in the opposite direction.  It's a beautiful cycle of about 7kms, passing by the Regago reservoir and dam en route.   

As we arrived at a viewpoint on the edge of the town we found a small tourist info in a renovated signal box, with the sounds of flamenco guitar and vocals emanating from within.  We waited a few minutes, admiring the scenery and enjoying the music, before going inside to find two old boys with a guitar and an almost empty bottle of red wine, clearly getting into pre lunch mode, one of whom was the tourist info official!  As well as directions into town, we also learned a little history about the railway, built with engineering help from the British apparently, and running alongside the main RENFE rail line.

Jerica itself is a lovely spot, and we managed to arrive on their market day, always good in small towns as everything else is open too.

We had an impromptu lesson in the baker’s, learning the difference between panaderias, which just sell bread and savouries, and pastellerias, which sell sweet pastries and cakes, after making the mistake of asking for sweet tarts in a bakery!  The woman in the panaderia was very patient! (Although we’re sure we’ve frequented many a dual purpose establishment). We ate our tuna and tomato empanadillas (from the panaderia of course) in a little square outside the museum, with views across the valley, before cycling back up the hill to the via verde and our temporary home at Camping Altomira.  Supper tonight was to be in the campsite restaurant, seated somewhat prosaically next to the cigarette machine and under the telly, to eat what was probably the saltiest paella I've ever tasted.  The jamon, cheese and garlicky tomato starter was delicious however.

We just made it back to the van before the heavens opened and the red wine haze of sleep descended.

Tomorrow, we're off to Albarracin, 'the most beautiful town in Spain'.  We shall see.