Benicássim by bike

 

One of our more recent discoveries in Spain is the amazing network of cycle/ hiking routes or Vias Verdes. Most of these are old railway tracks and the one between Oropesa and Benicássim – the Via Verde del Mar – is no different. Built in the 19^th C to facilitate the movement of tourists up and down the coast it is now used by walkers and cyclists alike following its restoration after the railway closed.

We had been warned by the staff at the campsite that the start of the route in Oropesa was a little difficult to find, and sure enough we missed it and had to make a steep ascent up a concrete ramp to get started! Once we were on it though, we were treated to a succession of beautiful coves, cuttings and coastline. Running directly along the edge of the rocky shoreline for most of its length, there are plenty of places to stop and admire the view.

The ride took a slightly alarming turn however, at the sight of a helicopter heading towards us from over the brow of the next cutting and flying very, very low… Half expecting it to start playing the Ride of the Valkyries and for us to suddenly love the smell of napalm in the morning, it veered right towards the sea and its intent became clearer; a cliff rescue right by the Via Verde. The area is peppered with walking routes and it looked as if someone had come a cropper walking out to one of the many headlands along the coast. Trying to strike a balance between understandable interest and mawkishness, we stayed long enough to see two crew winched down and attend the casualty.

Conscious that we wanted to get to Benicássim for lunch, we silently wished the crew and casualty good luck and cycled off towards the north end of the town, where we had read there were a few beachside villas worthy of note. And wow, were they impressive! Built mainly at the turn of the 20^th C by the rich and famous, many saw service in the Civil War as troop billets and hospitals for the Republican Brigades (including international ones) and some still survive in public and private ownership.

We’d arrived the morning after a stormy night and although it’s only the Med, there were a number of locals surfing the break that peeled around the headland at the north end of the beach, which was just losing its power, so the surfing had given way to drinks on the terraced bar overlooking the waves...

We lunched at El Torreón opposite the Torre San Vicente on the Playa Torreón. The menú del dia delivered a three course delight of an assorted fried fish starter, followed by a Valencian paella and chocolate pannacotta, with drink, coffee and bread for €13.50 each – not bad for a beachside restaurant with views over the Med!

With a lot more of Benicássim to explore on a subsequent trip, we mounted up and at a more stately pace as befits a post-lunch and slightly uphill return gradient, we got a different view of the coast that included another tower like the one at Torre la Sal that had been built to watch out for pirates - this one hidden from view as we’d headed south but a prominent feature on the return trip.

And so, with just about enough daylight left for the trip back to the van, we stopped for a quick photo at the marina at Oropesa – as much to prove that I really had found my shorts as the stunning backdrop! Although this Via Verde is a relatively short one, it enabled us to take in some stunning views and a decent lunch – and reminded us to be proactive and seek out more of these routes – they are a great way to spend a day and see bits of the country that otherwise would be too easily driven past.

Next trip will be to the walled town of Morella, up in the hills and a very different experience no doubt!

S.