We turned right at Vila do
Bispo with a small sigh of relief, leaving mass tourism and high rise behind
for a picturesque drive past Carrapteira and Odeceixe, wild and windy surf spots
of past visits but not on the itinerary this year.
We stopped off at Miróbriga
en route, a small but perfectly formed Roman site.
We arrived in Comporta a windy - and windy, four hours later to a brand new covered car parking area and a campervan ban for any more than 8 hours. The wind was howling and surf was up but the beach here is still as beautiful as ever, in spite of the serried ranks of parasols that seem to have replaced the colourful fishing boats, but the two restaurants we remember are still here, with a small cocktail bar addition selling trendy cocktails, and the feel has changed from undiscovered to smart hippy surf vibe.
We arrived in Comporta a windy - and windy, four hours later to a brand new covered car parking area and a campervan ban for any more than 8 hours. The wind was howling and surf was up but the beach here is still as beautiful as ever, in spite of the serried ranks of parasols that seem to have replaced the colourful fishing boats, but the two restaurants we remember are still here, with a small cocktail bar addition selling trendy cocktails, and the feel has changed from undiscovered to smart hippy surf vibe.
It was interesting to see but not an option to stop, so we backtracked south,
passing the inland village of Comporta with its storks’ nests, looking not so
very different from its 1990s self.
Then past Carvahal (same
parasols and car park) and decided to take a chance on a dead end road to a
campsite, signed from the main road - and were very glad we did!
Camping Galé is an old school style campsite, just north of Fontainhas, with an impressive show of security (think combat trousers, truncheon, handcuffs and mace spray!) set in the pinewoods above one of the most spectacular beaches we have seen in a long time. The site is home to mostly 'permanents'; caravans and cabins used by weekenders from the city and also a tented surf school – maybe the security is for potentially unruly young folk? Although the international surf school community seemed perfectly behaved to us.
Camping Galé is an old school style campsite, just north of Fontainhas, with an impressive show of security (think combat trousers, truncheon, handcuffs and mace spray!) set in the pinewoods above one of the most spectacular beaches we have seen in a long time. The site is home to mostly 'permanents'; caravans and cabins used by weekenders from the city and also a tented surf school – maybe the security is for potentially unruly young folk? Although the international surf school community seemed perfectly behaved to us.
Parking for campervans and caravans is restricted to a small area near the
beach, and tents further up the hill. Security aside, the whole place has
a very relaxed feel and is nicely self-contained with a supermarket and even a
fresh fish shop.
Day one - lounge on the beach, eat barbecued besugo (rose grey bream), get tipsy. Day two, lounge on the beach, eat barbecued frango (that's chicken to you!) and drink lemon squash - ready for the drive to Setúbal the next day. We felt very blessed to have enjoyed two fabulous beach days here and vowed to go ‘off ACSI’ again if we thought the destination looked good. It’s very easy to get into a rhythm of hopping from one safety net to the next and probably means missing out on some of the more interesting options.
The drive to the ferry was
an easy hop and we were soon on board and across the estuary from the Troía
peninsula to Setúbal.
We’d decided
to go straight from there to Seisimbra, a short and as it turned out, very scenic
hop along the coast through the Arrábida national park.
J.
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